Black charred timber façade in a landscaped outdoor setting

Installation, care & weathering

Designed to age with character

Charred timber is a natural material that continues to respond to sunlight, moisture and its surroundings. Correct installation and considered maintenance allow it to weather beautifully while protecting its performance for years to come.

Explore the guidance Download the guides

Step 01

Before installation

01
Store boards flat
Store horizontally on a flat surface, in a dry, well-ventilated and sheltered area, protected from direct sunlight, rain and ground moisture.
02
Keep 20 cm off the ground
Boards must be stored at least 20 cm above ground level.
03
Allow acclimatisation
Allow the timber several days to acclimatise before installation, particularly during periods of extreme humidity or dryness.
04
Keep packaging on — but ventilated
Protective packaging should remain intact until shortly before installation. Boards must not be stored in fully sealed or non-ventilated packaging for extended periods, as condensation may occur.
05
Lift, never drag
Handle finished faces carefully and lift boards rather than sliding them across one another. Never place a brushed face directly against another finished face.
06
Lay out ten boards first
Spread at least ten planks before fitting and match them for grain, colour and texture — every plank is unique.

Charred boards handled in the Inflamed factory

When calculating quantities, include an additional allowance of approximately 10–15% for cutting and installation waste.

Source: Installation Guide v1.02 · Quick User Guide

Step 02

Installing the cladding

Choose your cladding orientation to see the correct ventilated substructure and installation sequence.

Cutaway — layer order

Front view — board orientation

Complete assembly

Vertical cladding requires a double-batten substructure. Install the first battens vertically over the breather membrane to create a continuous drainage and ventilation cavity. Fix horizontal counter-battens over the vertical battens, then fix the vertical cladding boards to the horizontal counter-battens.

The air must move continuously from the protected inlet at the bottom to the outlet at the top through the open spaces between the first vertical battens.

Vertical cladding — Supporting wall

The wall construction type determines the batten system used to attach the cladding. The facade build-up should be designed by a qualified architect, designer or engineer.

Vertical cladding — Breather membrane

A breathable windproof membrane is fixed to the supporting wall, behind the batten system. Every batten layer and the ventilation cavity sit outside this membrane.

Vertical cladding — Vertical battens

The first battens are fixed vertically over the breather membrane. They must be dry, structurally stable, treated or naturally durable, of similar durability to the cladding, and installed straight and level. Typical spacing is approximately 400–600 mm, subject to the project specification, profile, board dimensions and wind load.

Vertical cladding — Ventilation cavity between vertical battens

The ventilated cavity is the open space between the vertical battens — it is not a separate material layer. A continuous depth of minimum 20–30 mm must be maintained so air can rise from the inlet at the bottom to the outlet at the top, allowing drying, drainage and pressure equalisation.

Vertical cladding — Horizontal counter-battens

Horizontal counter-battens are fixed over the vertical battens, ideally 28x45 mm. Their upper edges should preferably be chamfered to improve water runoff. They must never be fixed directly against the membrane.

Vertical cladding — Vertical cladding

Vertical cladding boards are fixed to the horizontal counter-battens, perpendicular to the board direction. The cladding is recommended to be lifted 200 mm above the finished ground level.

Vertical cladding — Insect mesh

Air inlet at the bottom, air outlet at the top. Both ventilation openings should be protected with suitable insect mesh or ventilation profiles to prevent insects and debris entering the cavity, without restricting airflow.

Vertical cladding — Flashings and drainage

Flashings protect vulnerable junctions and direct water outward and away from the façade. Their dimensions and interfaces must be designed for the project so drainage remains separate from the ventilation airflow.

Horizontal cladding — Supporting wall

The wall construction type determines the batten system used to attach the cladding. The facade build-up should be designed by a qualified architect, designer or engineer.

Horizontal cladding — Breather membrane

A breathable windproof membrane is fixed to the supporting wall, behind the batten system. Every batten layer and the ventilation cavity sit outside this membrane.

Horizontal cladding — Vertical battens

Horizontal cladding — Ventilation cavity between vertical battens

Horizontal cladding — Horizontal cladding

Horizontal cladding boards are fixed directly to the vertical battens, perpendicular to the board direction. No second counter-batten layer is required for this standard arrangement. The cladding is recommended to be lifted 200 mm above the finished ground level.

Horizontal cladding — Insect mesh

Horizontal cladding — Flashings and drainage

This diagram shows the general ventilated construction principle. Final batten dimensions, fixing centres, membranes, flashings and structural fixings must be confirmed for the selected profile, building design and local regulations.

This guidance does not replace project-specific engineering or architectural advice. The final façade build-up must be confirmed by the project's architect, engineer or qualified installer.

Fixing the boards

A2 stainless steel — standard environments
Only high-quality stainless steel fixings suitable for exterior timber cladding should be used. A2 stainless steel screws for standard environments.
Installation Guide v1.02
A4 stainless steel — coastal and humid
A4 stainless steel screws for coastal or high-humidity environments.
Installation Guide v1.02
Two screws at every fixing point
Two screws should always be used at every fixing point. A single fixing may allow boards to twist, cup, warp or move excessively over time.
Installation Guide v1.02
Straight, consistent fixing lines
All screws should be installed in perfectly straight and consistent lines, set out with a laser alignment system or a tensioned string line between the two ends of the facade section.
Installation Guide v1.02
Level heads, never overdriven
Screw heads should finish level with the plank — not driven inside it and not standing proud. Overdriving may damage the charred or brushed surface.
Quick User Guide
Pre-drill where splitting is a risk
Pre-drilling is recommended near board ends, when using hardwood species, during installation in colder weather and wherever a splitting risk exists.
Installation Guide v1.02

Quick User Guide reference: two stainless steel screws every 500–600 mm; 42 mm screws for 20 mm thick planks, approximately 40 screws per m².

Do

Wear clean gloves when possible.
Lift boards individually rather than sliding them.
Protect finished surfaces from tools and rough contact.
Remove metal filings and construction debris from the facade immediately.
Treat cut ends created during installation to minimise moisture penetration.

Avoid

Dragging boards across one another.
Placing tools directly on finished surfaces.
Stacking brushed or finished faces directly against one another.
Overdriving fixings.
Installing wet boards or working against a wet substrate.

Cut ends: sawn ends may be burned with a gas torch (optional) and should be treated with wood oil. If you are unsure which method applies to your finish, contact Inflamed before treating the ends.

Step 03

A surface that evolves with its surroundings

Close view of a charred timber surface showing natural grain and tonal variation

Colour fading
Silvering
Gradual tonal variation
Surface texture changes
Limited release of small carbon particles from deeply charred surfaces in the early period after installation

These changes are natural properties of timber and shall not be treated as defects. Slight expansion, contraction and minor surface checking are likewise natural.

Maintenance intervals by finish

Maintenance requirements vary according to timber species, finish and exposure. Select your timber and finish to view the indicative re-oiling interval and recommended care instructions.

Choose your finish

0510152025

Approximately every 5 years

Years

Inspection: Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration.
Cleaning: Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating.
Re-oiling: Brushed and oiled surfaces expose more grain and need a periodic maintenance coat of the matching oil to preserve colour and protection. Re-oil earlier if the surface shows significant colour loss or coating deterioration; if it remains in good condition, maintenance may be carried out toward the later end of the interval.

Source: Inflamed indicative guidance

Maintenance intervals are indicative and may vary according to project conditions. Inspect the façade regularly and contact Inflamed if you are uncertain about the condition of the surface.

Spruce — KIME brushed and oiled · Approximately every 5 years

Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration. Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating. Brushed and oiled surfaces expose more grain and need a periodic maintenance coat of the matching oil to preserve colour and protection. Re-oil earlier if the surface shows significant colour loss or coating deterioration; if it remains in good condition, maintenance may be carried out toward the later end of the interval.

Larch — KIME brushed and oiled · 8–12 years

Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration. Periodically check colour consistency and overall surface appearance, ensure stainless steel screws remain tight, look for mechanical or impact damage, and inspect all cut ends so no fresh untreated wood is exposed. Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating. Clean as described in the cleaning sequence before re-oiling. Ensure the timber is dry: moisture below approximately 18% by meter, or dry to the touch with no rain or surface moisture in the last 24 hours. Brushed and oiled surfaces expose more grain and need a periodic maintenance coat of the matching oil to preserve colour and protection. Re-oil earlier if the surface shows significant colour loss or coating deterioration; if it remains in good condition, maintenance may be carried out toward the later end of the interval. Apply one thin maintenance coat of Masquelack – Shou Sugi Ban Oil using a brush, roller or sponge, evenly and along the grain. If the appearance remains satisfactory after 10 years, re-oiling may be postponed, but not beyond 15 years.

Japanese Cedar — KIME brushed and oiled · 8–12 years

Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration. Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating. Brushed and oiled surfaces expose more grain and need a periodic maintenance coat of the matching oil to preserve colour and protection. Re-oil earlier if the surface shows significant colour loss or coating deterioration; if it remains in good condition, maintenance may be carried out toward the later end of the interval.

Accoya® — KIME brushed and oiled · 12–15 years

Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration. Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating. Brushed and oiled surfaces expose more grain and need a periodic maintenance coat of the matching oil to preserve colour and protection. Re-oil earlier if the surface shows significant colour loss or coating deterioration; if it remains in good condition, maintenance may be carried out toward the later end of the interval.

Larch — KAEN deep char · Approximately every 20 years

Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration. Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating. Deeply charred surfaces retain their protective carbon layer and generally require less intervention. Periodic coating is only necessary where the original appearance is to be preserved rather than allowed to age naturally.

Japanese Cedar — KAEN deep char · Approximately every 20 years

Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration. Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating. Deeply charred surfaces retain their protective carbon layer and generally require less intervention. Periodic coating is only necessary where the original appearance is to be preserved rather than allowed to age naturally.

Accoya® — KAEN deep char · 20–25 years

Inspect the façade at least once a year for surface damage, splitting, coating deterioration or discolouration beneath the coating, which could indicate moisture penetration. Clean the surfaces if necessary, never with a pressure washer, and let the timber dry completely before any coating. Deeply charred surfaces retain their protective carbon layer and generally require less intervention. Periodic coating is only necessary where the original appearance is to be preserved rather than allowed to age naturally.

All charred species — Decking (any finish) · Every 1–2 years

Decking carries heavier use than cladding and should be checked more often for wear, damage and exposed timber. Clean without a pressure washer and allow the boards to dry fully before any coating. Decking is advised more frequent re-oiling every 1–2 years. Maintenance is advised on each order individually.

Annual checklist

Inspect colour and overall surface condition.
Look for splitting, coating deterioration and impact damage.
Check that stainless steel fixings remain tight.
Inspect cut ends and any exposed timber.
Check areas around openings, corners and flashings.
Clean gutters and downpipes.
Repair leaks that repeatedly wet the cladding.
Record areas that may require local treatment.

Cleaning and maintenance

01Inspect the surface carefully for damage.
02Remove loose dirt carefully — never use a pressure washer, as it can damage the coating.
03Allow the timber to dry fully.
04Apply the correct finish-specific maintenance product.
05Work evenly, in the direction of the grain.
06Remove excess oil immediately with a cloth or sponge.
07Allow the surface to dry according to the product instructions.

Required working conditions

Timber moisture content below 20% (below approximately 18% for Brushed Black Larch).
Minimum temperature +5 °C.
Relative humidity below 80%.
No rain or surface moisture during the required drying period.
Avoid oiling in direct sunlight — too rapid drying compromises the oil coating.

Step 04

Damage and spot repairs

What has happened to the board?

Minor scratch

Put on protective gloves and use a cloth or sponge.
Apply one thin, localised coat of the matching wood oil, wetting only the damaged spot.
Remove excess oil immediately with a dry cloth, especially on undamaged areas.
Repaired areas may appear more glossy; to keep colour consistent the whole board or wall section can be recoated.

Damaged oil finish

Clean the area and allow it to dry completely.
Apply a wood oil in the appropriate shade, colour and gloss level to the damaged area.
Allow the first coat to dry before applying a second coat.
Observe the maintenance working conditions above.

Flaking or unstable coating

Applies where flaking affects sections of the topcoat or exposes the underlying timber on a brushed, oiled surface.
Use sandpaper (grit 180–220) to gently sand the affected area, removing all unstable coating and creating a smooth transition.
Thoroughly cleanse and wash the sanded region to remove dust, then let it dry completely.
Apply wood oil in the appropriate shade, colour and gloss; let the first coat dry before the second.
Do not sand a KAEN deep-char surface — sanding removes the carbon layer. Contact Inflamed first.

Exposed cut end

Always treat freshly cut ends or newly exposed timber immediately.
Use a gas torch (optional).
Apply wood oil.
If you are unsure which method applies to your finish, contact Inflamed before treating the end.

Deep impact damage

If regular maintenance has been delayed or other damage has occurred, further steps may be needed to restore the cladding.
Do not attempt a structural repair or heavy sanding yourself.
Send us photographs of the damage with your project details before starting any work.

Resin discharge

Resin is a natural component of timber, often in pockets or around knots; some species contain more than others.
Discharge commonly occurs on south-facing sides and darker hues, as the sun's warmth liquefies the resin.
Once dried, resin can be removed with a gentle bristle brush and lukewarm soapy water, or denatured ethyl alcohol.
Do not use other solvents - other substances may result in coating damage.

Unsure about the damage

Do not sand, solvent-clean or recoat a surface if you are not certain which finish it carries.
Send us photographs with the project name, product, installation date and location and we will advise.

Not sure what you are looking at? Send us photographs of the board and we will tell you what to do.

Download centre

The guides behind this page

Installation Guide
Instructions for use and assembly of charred wood cladding: storage, ventilation, supporting structure, fixings and handling.
English · PDF · Updated v1.02
View online Download PDF
Maintenance Guide
General maintenance of charred wood: yearly examination, maintenance plan, charred layer products, working conditions and resin discharge.
English · PDF · Updated 2024
View online Download PDF
Quick User Guide
Supplementary quick reference for loading, unloading, stacking, cut ends and screw quantities.
English · PDF · Updated 2024
View online Download PDF
Black (Brushed) Larch — Maintenance Plan
Product-specific plan: routine inspection, maintenance oiling every 10–12 years, spot repairs and the factors influencing the cycle.
English · PDF · Updated 2025
View online Download PDF

Need guidance for your project?

Every façade is exposed differently. If you are uncertain about installation, weathering or maintenance, share your project details with the Inflamed team before beginning the work.

Ask Inflamed Request a quote Download the guides

Designed to age with character

Before installation

Store boards flat

Keep 20 cm off the ground

Allow acclimatisation

Keep packaging on — but ventilated

Lift, never drag

Lay out ten boards first

Installing the cladding

Complete assembly

Fixing the boards

A2 stainless steel — standard environments

A4 stainless steel — coastal and humid

Two screws at every fixing point

Straight, consistent fixing lines

Level heads, never overdriven

Pre-drill where splitting is a risk

Do

Avoid

A surface that evolves with its surroundings

Maintenance intervals by finish

Annual checklist

Cleaning and maintenance

Required working conditions

Damage and spot repairs

The guides behind this page

Installation Guide

Maintenance Guide

Quick User Guide

Black (Brushed) Larch — Maintenance Plan

Need guidance for your project?